• Der Kürbis als Nahrungsmittel in der Steiermark des 18. Jahrhunderts am Beispiel der Stadt Graz. Eine staatliche Vorschrift unter Joseph II. im Spiegel der Grazer Kochbuchdrucke des späten 17. bis zur Mitte des 19. Jahrhunderts

    Author(s):
    Helga Müllneritsch (see profile)
    Date:
    2011
    Group(s):
    German Literature and Culture
    Subject(s):
    Books, History, Food--Study and teaching, Habsburg, House of, Manuscripts
    Item Type:
    Article
    Tag(s):
    eighteenth-century studies, Book history, Early modern studies, Food studies, Habsburg Empire, Manuscript studies
    Permanent URL:
    http://dx.doi.org/10.17613/M61251
    Abstract:
    Styria can hardly be imagined without its ubiquitous pumpkin. With its long shoots, the Styrian oilseed pumpkin (cucurbita pepo ssp. pepo var. styriaca) is particularly popular as it does not only create identity but also holds large economic potential considering the countless products made from the vegetable, such as pumpkinseed oil, pasta, jams, soaps and many other items. It seems as if the vegetable has always been cultivated in this region and has enjoyed at least some degree of esteem. The historical perspective reveals, however, that pumpkins as a culinary trait of Styria's food culture are far from being as old as various marketing policies try to make us believe. The vegetable, which is a native of Central America, arrived in Europe not before the 16th century. In Styria, it was not accepted as foodstuff for a long time. Similar to potatoes, pumpkins were regarded as pig feed. However, there is evidence that the consumption of pumpkinseed oil dates back to the late 17th century. In the second half of the 18th century, bad harvests and similar disasters led to food shortages and famines. In 1773, under the rule of Joseph II, an information pamphlet was published and widely distributed among the populace. The aim of this 'publicity campaign' was to promote the cultivation and consumption of pumpkins. The pamphlet also contained a number of pumpkin recipes to compensate for the grain scarcity. This paper analyses the effectiveness of these measures by examining references to pumpkin in cookery books of the time. The analysis includes fifteen cookery books from the late 17th to the mid 19th century which were printed in the city of Graz. This study illustrates political approaches towards the improvement of the food situation in the late 18th century, while establishing the extent of acceptance by the populace or parts thereof.
    Metadata:
    Published as:
    Journal article    
    Status:
    Published
    Last Updated:
    5 years ago
    License:
    All Rights Reserved
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